domingo, 20 de septiembre de 2015

Make sure to have a share of capital so to be able to still participate in the economy.


The share of wages in the economy has been steadily falling for quite a while[1] . It was only a matter of time before growth in the size of the overall economy couldn't offset it.
What is happening is labor is becoming less valuable while capital becomes more valuable. Thanks to automation and globalization, this has probably been going on since the end of the civil war in the US (prior to that, slaves were considered capital so things were a bit confused).
People like to talk about bargaining power and the minimum wage as a solution, but fundamentally the problem is that labor itself really is becoming less and less valuable. More cost effective machines and less labor intensive ways of producing products are essentially pushing workers out of the market.
The only real solution is to make sure everyone has a share of capital so that they can still participate in the economy.

miércoles, 16 de septiembre de 2015

Electric Cars income-tax credit

Nissan LEAF
All Leaf models qualify for a $7,500 Federal income-tax credit, along with various state, local, and corporate incentives. Nissan also offers a three-year lease at $199 a month, allowing the benefits of the tax credit (which goes to the lessor) to reduce the monthly payment, as well as reducing worry about battery durability over the life of the car.

The Leaf now sells well in multiple locales: not only California and the Pacific Northwest, but also in several parts of Texas and in Atlanta, where buyers benefit from a $5,000 state income-tax credit on top of the Federal income-tax credit of $7,500.

The only notable change for 2015 is an updated chemistry for its lithium-ion battery that Nissan says tolerates high temperatures much better--those in sun-baked Southwestern desert states, for instance. 

The new "hot-weather" chemistry in the battery cells for 2015 doesn't change the EPA-rated range of 84 miles, but it is expected to make the pack significantly more resistant to capacity loss due to very high ambient temperatures--a problem seen in a small number of cars in climes like Phoenix, Arizona, where temperatures just above the asphalt can reached 150 degrees F or higher during the summer.

Top speed of the 3,200-pound car is limited to 90 mph., that drives the front wheels. 

Buyers find they save enormous amounts of money from not having to buy gasoline. Indeed, electric cars cost only one-fifth to one-third as much per mile to run as gasoline cars do, depending on how much the owner pays for a kilowatt-hour of electricity. 

BMW i3 (autonomia 160km y 300km con version extendida)
Beyond those groundbreaking BMW basics, there's an optional 650cc two-cylinder range-extending engine, producing 34 horsepower (25 kilowatts) and 40 lb-ft of torque. It doesn't power the wheels, but simply acts as a generator to recharge the battery, boosting the car's range from the 82 miles of the battery-only version to perhaps 150 miles or so between fill-ups. That's thanks to a tiny gas tank holding less than 2 gallons, purposely made tiny to comply with complex California regulations on zero-emission vehicles. 

This i3 was $3600 per year.

Almost all of these are leased. Hardly anybody wants to buy them because of the low range and since the manufacturers don't want to be embarrassed by a low sales price they do a cheap lease. I'm not knocking this car. This looks like a perfect commuter car for somebody who drives 40 miles/day like this guy. It's definitely better than a $300/month experience.

TESLA
While that efficiency rating is slightly lower than those of the Nissan Leaf (114 MPGe) and the most efficient electric car on the market, the new BMW i3 (124 MPGe), it remains impressive for a five-seat luxury vehicle that's larger, heavier, and much faster than either of those other cars.

 

martes, 15 de septiembre de 2015

Cheap Projectors -- how bad are they? REVIEW

Cheap Projectors -- how bad are they?

Looking for a big comfortable kitchen mat to stand on

Hi, if up can't find one maybe you could look at making one? I used to work in a factory standing up all day and we used to put layers of cardboard under thin linoleum as make shift pads to stand on, didn't alway last forever but definitely helped for standing a lot!

This are on sale on Costco too!! 

Anti-Fatigue-Mats 

Recently purchased a cumulus pro mat off amazon (#1 rated standing matt @ Amazon). Totally worth it. Bits not heavy, but the density really makes a difference at my standing desk.
Was getting significant postural strain when working for for at least 30 mins before. now I haven't noticed this. (Had it only 3 weeks)



You can easily crochet a kitchen rug out of old tshirts. It's no magic foam mat, but it is pretty plush. Mine is still going strong after 5 months in the kitchen. Pros: you can throw it in the washer when it gets too dirty, it's color customizable, and it's as big as you want to make it. If you already have the old tshirts to cut up, it will only cost you time and a crochet hook (I recommend size N - ~$2.75). I'm not a crochet guru, but a decent rug only takes a few hours to whip up.
Here's a tutorial for making tshirt yarn: http://www.craftpassion.com/2009/05/recycle-tutorial-making-of-t-shirt-yarn.html[1] Here's a YouTube tutorial for actually crocheting the rug: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z81GLekCwo[2] 

Can't ship home your Amazon shoppings? Ship to your wirk then!.

Yup, I ship all my shit to work and nobody tells me anything. Shipped my new mattress, bed frame, and a ton of shit that I bought off Amazon while furnishing my bedroom. Not only does it get dropped off before 11am *business address) but I don't have to worry about the Fedex or UPS man leaving it outside my door where anybody could take it.

How to Cover your ass renting, proper sing in & off

I have lived at one Camden property and have received similar notices from others who have lived at Camden. Upon move out even if you return the apartment in like, or even better condition they will charge you for all kinds of stuff, including the carpet replacement.
I last lived at a Camden property about 4 years ago. Before move out I got their paint info on all surfaces. I went through and fixed any blemish in the place. (even those that were there on my move in) I also had the floors professionally cleaned, deodorized and waxed (for the non-carpeted flooring). The place was looking way better than it did when I moved in. I returned that Apartment in rent ready condition.
I had the property manager do a final walk through with me and sign an affidavit I had my lawyer draw up that stated there were no issues, all refundable deposits would be returned and no fees would be charged.
Fast-forward about 2 months and I get in the mail a notice from a collections agency. Note this is the first time I am getting anything about any 'issue' with Camden. The charges came out to be nearly $1300. I was shocked; I called the office and they claim that the unit was return in a undesirable condition. They claimed the Carpet was filthy and dents and dings in the walls.
Thankfully I had pictures of the before and after (move in and Move out) and the paperwork. After engaging my lawyer, working 3 more months with the corporate office and threatening legal action they finally wiped out the collections. I am happy I utilized my companies Pre-Paid legal to fight it so I came out spending nothing.
I constantly sway people away from Camden, but sadly too many Apartments that are exactly alike. Always keep documentation on the condition of your rental and upon move out secure a backup move out condition affidavit.
tl;dr Camden will try anything to fuck you over upon move out. Even falsify information. Returning a rental in better or like condition still got me charged fees. Had to threaten legal action to clear it. Using a personal move out procedure to ensure CYA (cover your ass) is taken care of.

I had something similar happen at a property managed by Greystar. I think all these large apartments are managed by unethical companies.
They didn't send me my deposit within 30 days (illegal) and didn't send documentation indicating why not (illegal too). When I pressed them, they said they were keeping my money because my cat stained the carpet (not true). I said the carpet stain had been there since the day I moved in, they just never cleaned it like they promised they would. I provided them emails indicating this history. They still didn't mail me the check.
I finally sent an email to about 20 executives, managers and vice presidents of Greystar containing this long email history indicating my intent to move forward with legal action unless the check was made available for pickup at the apartment at 9 a.m. the next day.
Magically it appeared. Though they made me wait around half an hour while they "looked" for it.

I would highly recommend you have one drawn up by a lawyer for the property you are at and for you specifically. Just ask for lawyer to prepare a document that will be used to enforce your rights as a renter and the status of the property upon move out.
Also one big thing.....have a notary public with you on the final walk through and signing it.
Do not do any "Quick Move Outs." Schedule a time when you have the property emptied of your belongings to have the walk through.
If they refuse to sign the document you make them write down why and have the NP notate that on the document.
Best to also take pictures on move in, with time and date stamp encoded on picture, document any and all issues in the photo (e.g. Paint, carpet, cabinets,...etc.). Then upon move out take pictures in the same vantage points pointing out the same issue, if they still exist.
I dislike we have to do anything extra but Apartment complexes, either owners or management, are out to bilk you out of money. Protect your credit and your renters history.

Well it came from being fucked over twice before that. Since then I have all property management, owners or agents sign this upon move in and Move out. I am all about CYA, I am in IT after all.

I had a similar problem with an IMT apartment complex. They don't talk to us for a year then we get a call from collections for $120, threatening to ruin our credit score if it wasn't paid within the month. 

Shit like this is why I only live in small (>20 units) independently owned apartments.
 


miércoles, 9 de septiembre de 2015

Your Friend is an Idiot, and You're Wasting Your Money

I need to go on a rant for a little bit.
I wanted to do something a little bit more constructive than write an article with this title, but today it looks like I'm going to reduce myself to cleaning up rumors. Yes, rumors; you know, that friendly little bit of "advice" that at least one person decides to regurgitate when someone mentions "credit score". It usually goes something like this:
My friend told me that if you want to build credit quickly, you should leave a small balance on your credit card so you can build trust with the bank. If you pay interest, they will see that you are a trustworthy consumer, and that you can handle paying them off. Otherwise, it looks like you're not utilizing your cards and that looks bad on your report.
Usually when I ask where people heard this, they say it was their friend who works as a teller, or maybe a friend who sells cars for a living, or someone who does collections at a hospital. News flash: not everyone who works in a hyperbolically related industry knows what they're talking about.
Not only is the statement above false, but even if it weren't false, it's still horrible advice. With most credit cards nowadays running an average of 15-20% APR, you can't afford how bad this advice is. And that's if it weren't a complete and utter lie.
Let me give you a small tip that might save you hundreds of dollars a year the next time someone farts out something like that: You don't need to pay a dime in interest for a good credit score. If you do, you're paying a premium for something that's exactly the same as the free version. And the free version goes something like this:
Always pay your statement balance in full, every month, by the due date. This will allow you to avoid paying interest, and your credit utilization will be recorded for free.
It's really just that simple, and it's the only way you should be building your credit score. Paying interest doesn't improve your score faster. It only costs you money, and it makes you look pathetic when you have to explain to your new finance girlfriend why the size of your savings account is so small.
All right, zonination. If you're so smart, then why is this "rumor" false?
I'll tell me why. It's because the interest that you pay on a credit card is not reported to the credit bureaus.
When you receive your statement, the statement balance is the number that is provided to the bureaus. This is the grand total that appears on your monthly statement from the bank. For credit cards, the bank also reports your available credit. If you've ever looked at your credit report[1] (which you should do every year), you will see that the only two numbers reported on your accounts are yourstatement balance and your available credit. The month after your statement, they record whether you paid on time. Wash, rinse, repeat.
It's almost completely needless to say that the FICO algorithm[2] uses only these three criteria when calculating your payment history and utilization. In case the gears aren't turning in your head, this means that interest paid has no additional effect on your score. So it's really just the same as paying your statement balance in full by the due date. Imagine that.
But my friend X is an expert who works for Y, and s/he told me to carry a balance!
Your friend is an idiot, and s/he is costing you a fortune. You're free to believe what your friend says, but that only makes you both wrong. Just because X claims something doesn't mean it's true[3] .
But if you really want to throw your hard-earned cash into an eternal abyss of broken promises on behalf of your so-called expert's advice, I suppose I can't stop you. It's your money, after all, and you're free to waste it on whatever you want.
But I'm nervous that paying in full might look bad on my report.
Look at what I just said above. The only things your bank's monthly report contains are your statement balance, available credit, and whether you paid on time. Interest is not recorded and there's nothing to get nervous about.
When your statement balance comes in, you've been recorded. You will already look "good" utilizing your credit as long as your statement says something other than "0". Then your choice is whether or not to pay in full.
Really, the only thing that will make you look bad are the bankers snickering at you behind their mahogany desks, all because you believe a rumor that pulls a ton of revenue from suckers who fall for this kind of crap.
That's just your opinion, though. I followed X's advice, and it worked!
The reason it worked is because, in addition to paying interest you never needed to pay, you also built a payment history which would have happened anyway. Your credit score didn't get "bonus points" or "extra trust" because your bank made some quick cash off of you. Your credit score got a boost because you made on-time payments that got reported to the bureaus. It would have worked exactly the same if you had paid your statement in full.
What if I took out a loan to improve my credit score instead?
What? Whoa, wait! No. Let's back up here. Look at what I said above. You don't need to pay a dime in interest for a good credit score. Obviously, while it's disappointing that there is no quick way to build a score, you don't need to take out a loan. Credit cardsare a loan, and paying them off in full every month builds a good enough payment history to bolster your score without paying interest. There are tips and tricks to boosting your score that I will examine later on, but "starter loans" are only a last resort.
What I've been trying to say for this whole post is that paying interest when you can afford to sidestep it is stupid. The whole point of having a good credit score is to pay lower rates on loans that you need to take out. Paying interest to avoid interest is an exercise in wastefulness, and it's completely unnecessary when you can build your score for free.
So if there's one thing I want you to take away from this, it's that you can build a good credit history without paying the premium rate. Repeat after me: I, [name], will always pay my statement balance in full, every month, by the due date.

How does someone qualify/ acquire a Credit Card? I just started with a pnc cashbuilder.

The Sallie Mae card gives 5% cash back at bookstores (Amazon counts as a bookstore) up to $750 a month and 5% on groceries/gas for up to $250. 1% on Everything else after that

you get 5% on ANYTHING at amazon
Amazon counts as BOOKSTORE to credit card companies.
Make sure it's not a third party selling on amazon and sold through Amazon directly. As long as it's sold directly from Amazon, the discount applies. It's a classification by the credit card company on the vendor as a whole and not an item by item situation.

I use the Citi double cash (2% back on everything) for everything else or if I'm over the monthly limits on Sallie Mae.

Sallie Mae Mastercard - run by Barclay's - gives 5% back at bookstores, limited to $750 spending per month, and groceries+gas, limited to $250 in spending per month. Amazon is considered a bookstore for most spending, except for electronic goods and anything sold on the marketplace.
Alternatively, Discover IT, which has Amazon as one of it's 5% selected categories for at least the next quarter, no limit on that I can recall, AND is currently running a promotion for the first year where after a year you get your reward doubled, making it an effective 10%. But the rest of the year Amazon is not a special category. It's not a set it and forget it card.

I believe Discover caps the purchases qualifying for quarter cash back at $1500. After you've bought that much it starts being the normal 1%.
 I use Discover, the 5% changes quarterly, 1% on everything else.

Should look into cards like Chase Freedom with rotating 5% categories, Chase Sapphire Preferred (only if travel, annual fee), Discover IT, and Citi Double Cash, depending on goals: cash back vs travel rewards.

I also have some big box store cards that give 5%, like the Redcard from Target or the Lowes card. Those are nice for a lot of general purchases.

Because you have multiple cards so you always have something that's getting you 5%. plus you often times can buy gift cards from a place that gives you 5% in a rotating category. so while you are earning 3/2/1, i'm earning 5% on pretty much everything and at least 2% when nothing else hits (discover, freedom, sallie mae, Citi Forward, citi double cash, amex blue cash, etc). combine freedom with csp's miles transfer, and it becomes 7.5% effective, much higher than your 1.5%.

Applying for a lot of cards in a short time will slightly ding your credit.
Having a lot of outstanding debt at the moment will ding your credit.
Having a lot of recently opened accounts will lower your average age of accounts, which will ding your credit.

There's a few good threads you might want to check out:

Many community sized banks offer reward style checking accounts as well.

Plus rental car insurance, travel insurance, extended warranties, they'll give you the difference if something you bought is found with a lower price within a couple months after purchase, concierge service, roadside assistance, and the dozens of other free services that credit card companies include with their cards. For some of them, you don't even need to have used the card.
When I got my first credit card, my parents told me to only use it for gas and groceries. When you feel more comfortable, you can use it for other things.


As long as you have a balance on your card when your monthly statement is issued, and you pay it off in full before the due date, it will show that you have debt/are paying it off. You should NEVER carry a balance just to build credit, as there is no added benefit to carrying a balance vs paying off in full.
What the salespeople talking to your dad were likely referring to was seeing different kinds of debt. A credit card is revolving debt (meaning the balance can fluctuate up and down), while something like a car loan or mortgage is a type of installment debt - the balance only ever goes down, by a set amount each month/week/whatever the payment schedule. Creditors like to see multiple types of debt to show that you can be responsible with making payments on different types of debt.
If all you have in your credit history so far is just a cc, your credit score will be lower than if you have both a cc and a type of installment debt (and obviously, never have a late payment on either).

You dont pay interest if you pay the balance in full each month.
I have 780+ credit and got approved for a $225k house (on a $42k/year salary).
 Just because you get approved for a certain amount doesn't mean you have to get a house that costs that much. For example, I bought a house for $100k less than the amount I was approved for.

I feel like a credit card would give me a false sense of having actual money.
And it absolutely does, too. Living on cash can really give you a sense of where your money is going. You might consider the "envelope" method.
My wife and I did this for years - essentially make an envelope for each of your bills, one for rent and phone, one for insurance, one for christmas presents, etc, and one for "play money". I would write on the envelop how much needed to go in each one each paycheck (and to savings). Some envelopes would then get emptied to pay bills each month, some envelopes would collect money and only get emptied to pay bills once every 6 months (car insurance) or once a year (christmas presents). Anyway, it's probably better explained here: http://www.daveramsey.com/blog/envelope-system-explained[1]
Really, unless you are already a good budgeter, the idea that you will only use a credit card for essentials and pay it off every month will end up costing you more than you will ever make up in bonus points. I wouldn't say it's absolutely a terrible idea to pay recurring bills-only with a card and pay it off every month, just be cautious. And if you feel compelled to live without a credit card, don't let others talk you out of it.

Recently discovered my all my major grocery stores were now offering physical cards that could link to their app where you could scroll through and just tap the coupons that you wanted and they were loaded onto your card just like that. Them charging me less. I was over the moon.
EDIT: (in case it's a little muddled, get into the grocery stores and see which ones pay you back and which ones help keep track of what coupons are coming up to expire and some also suggest coupons based on other coupons you've clicked before, my fiancee and I saved about $50 everytime we grocer between coupons and sales. just my two pence worth.

I can do that with my Safeway card. I try to set aside a few minutes every Thursday night to load all the personalized coupons, it's legit.

Dude, Safeway, target, baker's/Krogers/Dillion's (whoevers on the company logo at the time),Walgreens is heading that way, the commissary if you're a vet or active duty, hy-vee just rolled one out, the list is pretty long. Definitely worth looking into to save a few bucks. Digital coupons are my forte. I love saving 30-40 bucks on a grocery bill for something I was doing while waiting on my wife to decide what kind of frozen pizza we should get for dinner.

I use a tampermonkey safeway script that auto loads everything on the website to my card every time I load the site. It's one of my background tabs that open by default on my work computer, so it runs a few times a day usually.