miércoles, 20 de enero de 2016

Health Insurance 101

Health Insurance (avoid dental)

There appears to be a multitude of posts on /r/personalfinance about how individuals had unexpected bills because of a problem with their medical insurance or their medical practitioner. This post will cover the basics of health insurance, as is relevant for most consumers.
Remember, like many other topics discussed in /r/personalfinance, your choices for healthcare are personal. The health insurance policy that's best for one individual may not be the best for someone else.
Also, I am far from being an expert in healthcare and it is likely that I made a mistake in this long post. I apologize in advance for any mistakes and would appreciate them being corrected.

Contents

  • Health Insurance Vocabulary
  • An Illustrative Example
  • Negotiated Rates
  • Fully-covered Services
  • Types of Insurance Policies
  • Comparing Insurance Policies
  • Lowering the Cost of Healthcare
  • Preparing for Medical Treatment
  • Dental Insurance
  • Afterword

Health Insurance Vocabulary

When looking at a health insurance policy, there are four numbers you really want to look at when you're comparing health insurance plans: The policy's premium, deductible, co-insurance, and out-of-pocket maximum.
The premium is the cost of the insurance coverage. It can be billed weekly, monthly, or however often the insurance company/your employer decides.
The deductible is the amount that you pay out-of-pocket for medical services each year before insurance starts paying anything.
Co-insurance is the percentage of medical costs that you pay after meeting the deductible.
A co-pay is a fixed amount that you pay for a service. You usually only pay co-pays for services not subject to the deductible.
The out-of-pocket maximum is the maximum you pay for medical expenses in the calendar year. Once the out-of-pocket maximum has been met, the insurance company will pay 100% of medical costs for the remainder of the year.

An Illustrative Example

Bob pays $500/month has an insurance policy with the following characteristics: A $2,000 deductible, 20% co-insurance, and an out-of-pocket max of $5,000.
In January, Bob got sick and had to visit the doctor. Because he hadn't yet met the deductible, Bob had to pay for $150 for the visit out of his own pocket.
Current Status:
Deductible: $150/$2,000
Out-of-pocket Maximum: $150/$5,000

In June, Bob had a heart attack and went to the emergency room. The bill for the hospitalization and the diagnostic exams came out to $2,850. From the bill of $2,850, Bob is required to pay $1,850 towards the deductible (he paid $150 for his earlier sick visit) and $200 (20% of the next $1,000) as co-insurance. Bob has now met his deductible and has paid $2,200 towards his out-of-pocket maximum. Bob's insurance company has paid $800 of Bob's medical expenses.
Current Status:
Deductible: $2,000/$2,000
Out-of-pocket Maximum: $2,200/$5,000

In August, Bob needed emergency surgery and spent a week recovering in the hospital. The bill for the surgeon and hospital stay is roughly $30,000. Because Bob met his deductible, he is only required to pay the 20% co-insurance of $6,000. But Bob already paid $2,200 towards his out-of-pocket maximum of $5,000. So Bob only needs to pay $2,800 to meet his out-of-pocket maximum, and the insurance company pays the remaining $27,200. Bob is not having a good year.
Current Status:
Deductible: $2,000/$2,000
Out-of-pocket Maximum: $5,000/$5,000

Disaster strikes again. In October, Bob breaks his leg and racks up another $10,000 in medical bills. Because Bob met his out-of-pocket maximum, he doesn't have to pay anything. Bob's health insurance pays the full $10,000.
Current Status:
Deductible: $2,000/$2,000
Out-of-pocket Maximum: $5,000/$5,000

Over the course of the year, Bob spent $6,000 for his health insurance and $5,000 on medical expenses for a total of $11,000. Bob's insurance company spent $38,000 ($800 + $27,200 + $10,000) on Bob's medical expenses. Bob's wallet is hurting, but at least he has something left in it.
Under the Affordable Care Act, medical insurance providers cannot put an annual or lifetime cap on how much they'll pay for expenses for essential health benefits. Essential health benefits include emergency services, hospitalization, maternity and newborn care, prescription drugs, and more.

Negotiated Rates

In the above example, having health insurance was financially an excellent move for Bob. For $11,000, he avoided paying $43,000 worth of medical bills. But most people don't have medical bills that exceed their out-of-pocket maximum. For those individuals, health insurance provides a secondary benefit called "negotiated rates".
When you visit a medical practitioner or hospital, they can bill any amount they want (although some are limited by local laws). For some practitioners, the insurance company negotiates how much they'll pay them for that service. For example, a doctor may charge $200 for a sick visit. But the insurance company negotiates that they'll only pay $75 for a sick visit. The $200 bill sent by the doctor to the insurance company is called the pre-negotiated rate. The $75 bill in this instance is called the negotiated rate. An insured patient at an in-network practice will not need to pay more than the negotiated rate.
The medical practices that have a negotiated rate with your insurance company are considered to be in-network. The medical practitioners that did not agree to the discounted rates are considered to be out-of-network. An out-of-network medical provider can charge you the pre-negotiated rate. Taking the above example, the insurance company may only pay $75 for a $200 out-of-network sick visit, leaving the patient responsible for the $125 balance.
Additionally, insurance companies also may have different deductibles, co-insurance, and out-of-pocket maximums for in-network vs out-of-network visits. For example, the deductible may be $3,000 for in-network visits and $4,000 for out-of-network visits. It is usually most efficient financially to only use in-network providers.

Fully-covered Services

All ACA-compliant insurance policies fully cover well visits and preventative care at in-network providers. These include medical care like immunizations and checkups. That means that someone going for a regular check up does not have to pay anything for the visit, independent of whether or not the deductible was met.
For example, Alice has a health insurance policy with a $1,000 deductible. Alice is healthy and wants to stay that way, so she schedules a flu shot at her doctor's office. Even though it's January and Alice hasn't paid anything towards her deductible, her insurance policy completely covers the flu shot and Alice does not have to pay any part of the cost.

Types of Insurance Policies

  • HMO (Health Maintenance Organization): HMO insurance plans generally have cheaper premiums than the other types of plans. The drawback is that they are also usually the most restrictive when it comes to selecting health care providers. Most HMO insurance plans also require a referral from your primary care physician (PCP) to see a specialist.
  • EPO (Exclusive Provider Organization): EPO insurance plans, like HMO, usually will only cover non-emergency medical costs from providers that are in-network. Referrals are not usually required in order to see specialists.
  • POS (Point of Service): POS insurance plans will usually cover medical costs both in- and out-of-network, though you will typically pay less at in-network providers. Referrals from a primary care provider may be required to see specialists.
  • PPO (Preferred Provider Organization): PPO insurance plans, like POS, cover medical costs both in- and out-of-network, with cheaper costs when staying in-network. A referral is usually not required to see specialists.
HMO and PPO plans are the most common. Most health insurance plans can be compared by looking at the participating (in-network) providers, whether a referral from your physician is needed to see a specialist, the deductible and/or co-pays, and the out-of-pocket maximum.
Most of these options can be improved at the expense of increasing the premium. With all else being equal, a plan with a lower deductible will have a higher premium. Similarly, a plan with a lower out-of-pocket maximum or a larger provider network may also have a higher premium.

Comparing Insurance Policies

When considering insurance policies, you’ll want to verify that your doctors are all in-network and that you’ll be able to easily visit an in-network practice in the event of an emergency. If you can’t use your health insurance to lower your medical bills, it doesn’t make a difference how low the premium is.
When comparing healthcare policies, I’ve found it worth examining the minimum, expected, and maximum cost for each policy. The minimum cost would be for the premiums and any regular prescriptions and medical visits necessary. The maximum cost would be the sum of the premiums and out-of-pocket maximums. The expected cost would be the average amount you expect to spend on healthcare over a year, including the premiums and the cost of several sick visits.
The expected cost of an insurance policy can be affected by many factors. The larger your family, the more sick visits you'll likely have during the year. The expected illnesses and complications for a 25-year old are very different than those of a 55-year old. Another factor to consider is that if a family member has a chronic condition, your calculation for the expected cost could be very different. Likewise if you (or your wife) is pregnant and has been having minor complications, you can expect that you'll have many more doctor's visits than normal, and you'll need to evaluate the chance of the baby spending time in the NICU.
The expected cost of your health expenses is where health insurance becomes extremely personal.

Lowering the Cost of Healthcare

Healthcare expenses can be quite high, with deductibles of several thousand dollars and out-of-pocket maximums over ten thousand dollars. Luckily, the IRS allows people to sometimes lower the actual cost of healthcare expenses by paying for them pre-tax.
Some employers grant access to a Healthcare Flexible Spending Account (HCFSA, sometimes called FSA), where money is taken out of the employee’s paycheck pre-tax. Then, as the healthcare expenses are incurred, the employee submits the receipts to the HCFSA program, which then reimburses the expenses from the pre-tax allotment. Some HCFSA programs also supply a debit card which can be used to pay for eligible expenses.
One of the biggest issues with HCFSAs is that the money allocated for them is “use-it or lose it”, meaning that only expenses incurred during the calendar year can be reimbursed from the HCFSAs. Any money left in HCFSA cannot be used in the following calendar year. While some companies allow carrying over up to $500, you’ll need to check your companies exact policy to determine what amount, if any, can be carried over to the following year.
For example, Joe allocated $2,000 for his HCFSA. Over the course of the year, Joe incurred $1,000 of medical expenses. Joe’s company’s HCFSA does not allow carrying over any funds in his HCFSA, so Joe loses the remaining $1,000 in the HCFSA.
Another option available is called a Health Savings Account (HSA). If someone has an insurance policy classified as a High-Deductible Health Plan (HDHP), they are allowed to open and fund an HSA. An HSA can be funded with pre-tax dollars, and unlike an FSA account, the balance is not forfeited at the end of the year. Any money left in the HSA at age 65 can be withdrawn without penalty, similar to a traditional 401(k).

Preparing for Medical Treatment

There are many stories of people being shocked with a bill for thousands of dollars. Below are the steps you can take to avoid owing (potentially) thousands of dollars.
  1. Choose an in-network practitioner. Verify that they’re in-network by calling your insurance company or checking your insurance company’s online directory. Many people have been told by a secretary that the practice is in-network and then learned otherwise. If you go out-of-network, you’ll likely have to pay the full charge for the service and will likely need to submit the bill to the insurance company yourself for reimbursement.
  2. If a referral or preauthorization is needed, make sure the paperwork is squared away. You may receive an EOB for the upcoming procedures. If you don’t receive an EOB, call your insurance company to verify that all necessary paperwork went through.
  3. After each visit, you should receive an explanation of benefits (EOB) with an itemized list of what the doctor billed for. If there is an unexpected or fraudulent item, contact the doctor’s office to clarify why that line is included on your bill. Health providers are required to provide an itemized bill. If the charge is fraudulent, contact your insurance company.
  4. If you go to an out-of-network practice, keep a copy of the statement from the doctor’s office, in case you need to submit the claim to your insurance company yourself. Even if the secretary says they’ll submit the claim to your insurance for you, they may not - and you’ll be the one who has to foot the bill.
  5. Once you determine how much is owed from a medical visit, submit the expense to your HCFSA for reimbursement.

Dental Insurance

Dental insurance operates similarly to health insurance, with similar plan types, provider networks, deductibles, and co-pays. However, dental insurance policies can have an annual or lifetime maximum for services, as they are not legally required to offer unlimited benefits.

Afterword

Thanks for reading this massive wall of text (6 pages in the Google Doc I drafted it in). I hope you found it educational and understandable. If I omitted any important details, or worse, made a mistake, please let me and the other readers know!
Edit 1: Corrected math on annual premium, added section title for "Comparing Insurance Policies"
Edit 2: Expanded "Comparing Insurance Policies"
Edit 3: Added spacing in the example to make it more readable.

A word on dental insurance (that also applies to vision insurance.) "Insurance" is supposed to mean that the insurer pays for a large but statistically rare cost that you couldn't afford, like your house burns down or you cause a car accident. That almost never happens with dental costs. Most people have the same sort of dental costs. What's called "dental insurance" is really a payment plan for normal costs of cleanings, Xrays and maybe a filling here and there.
If you do have major dental costs, most dental insurance actually won't cover that, because most plans have low annual limits, and often have high co-pays. For a lot of people, dental insurance doesn't save you any money.

martes, 19 de enero de 2016

Save TONS of money when selling/buying a home (advice from a former real estate agent).



READ THIS  FIRST! 

I started writing some of these points in a different thread and realized that many of you frugal folks might appreciate some tips to save THOUSANDS of dollars when selling or buying a home. I used to sell real estate before the bubble burst and I went broke but I did it just long enough to realize the traditional real estate agent model is set up in a way that really doesn't always benefit consumers. I honestly thought that the old school model of an agent listing a home for 6% commission would completely shift when the internet started becoming more sophisticated in that industry. While that has happened to some degree, the Realtor's association is very strong and I think most people are still unaware that you don't have to hire someone at 6% commission to sell your home and you don't really need to hire a buyer's agent either. In fact, the benefits of hiring one are usually negligible at best and actually often worse than the alternative. In almost all cases there are specialists (attorneys, photographers, appraisers, inspectors etc.) that you can hire who will do a better job for way less money. And while it may seem as though managing all of that by yourself might be difficult or time consuming I would argue that with the tools available to us through the internet it's comparable to hiring an agent on both counts. As with most things, there are plenty of exceptions where my advice doesn't apply but I think this will be helpful for many people buying/selling a home (even seasoned veterans of home sales and purchases) to understand that there are alternatives besides the old model. Since every circumstance is different, I encourage you to meet with agents and see what they have to offer to determine what's right for you but this should help you with some behind-the-scenes context that agents aren’t likely to mention. With no further ado, I give you my guide to buying and selling a house on the cheap.
Selling your home:
Why you think you need a seller's agent - If you're selling your house, you may think the only way to do it is to hire an agent. Maybe you believe the process is too complicated for you or you think that the real estate agent has some sort of magical house-selling power or they can bring a list of buyers that will pay top dollar for your property. You may even think that they can take the pain away from what is typically a very painful process.
Why you don't - Unless you have a lot of varied skills and recent experience with buying and selling homes already, you will need help. But the real question is whether a seller's agent is worth 5%-6% of your home's value and are there cheaper/better alternatives. As a reminder, 6% comes out to $12,000 on a $200,000 home! Here are some things an agent can actually do for you to earn that 6% commission. Provide advice on pricing and home improvements to get your house ready for sale. Take pictures, write copy and enter all the other relevant data into the local MLS service (basically, fill out a form online). Help lead negotiations when you have a deal on the table. Of all of those benefits, the most important is getting your property listed on the MLS. This is the service that companies like Trulia and Zillow use to populate their websites and is the service that other realtors use as the main database to find properties to show their clients. If you're not on the MLS, you're basically not really for sale. This is something that realtors rely on to keep normal people like us coming to them. But there is a solution to that problem (included in the bullets below). Other than the MLS thing, though, the internet renders most of the realtor’s benefits obsolete. So here’s how to get the above benefits without spending $12,000:
  • Pricing advice (Max value; $400) – There is no true science to pricing a home. Realtors and appraisers will argue that point but real estate is so much more nuanced than a scoring spreadsheet will tell you. Ultimately, it comes down to just knowing your market. Use sites like Trulia to see current properties on the market to evaluate your competition. Then look at properties similar to yours that have sold within the last 3-6 months or so to get an idea of a realistic final selling price. Assuming you’re not delusional and you know your neighborhood, you will get pretty close. Even when people hire agents, the agent often just lists for whatever the seller wants anyway. If you so desire, you can have a professional appraisal done on your property for less than $400, though many agents will offer a free “home valuation” as part of their marketing efforts hoping that you will ultimately list with them. If you’re comfortable having them do this with no intension of hiring them, that’s kind of up to your personal moral code, but it is an option. Many agents will do this for you even if you explicitly tell them you are going to try to sell on your own because they know you may call them if you decide to list with an agent eventually.
  • Home improvement advice (Max value; $0.00) - You could read countless articles on how to prepare a home for sale and follow their advice, which will probably be all you need. An agent will not actually help you prep your house for sale, that’s still on you, so the value here is minimal if anything at all. The most important things in my opinion are to DECLUTTER EVERYTHING and make sure the place is clean. Seriously, before you decide to put $5,000 into a bathroom or landscaping or whatever before you sell your place, consider renting a temporary storage unit and putting everything you don’t absolutely need in there. I’m talking couches, big furniture, stuff jammed in closets. Get rid of it all.
  • Marketing (Max value; $200) – You will need to have pictures and marketing copy to put your property on the MLS and other real estate websites. Your biggest cost here will be photography. You can find local photographers who focus on real estate who will charge you a completely reasonable rate. Photos are important, so I really don’t recommend doing this on your own unless you really know what you’re doing. Many agents even take photos of their properties themselves and they are terrible. As for copy, never in the history of real estate has excellent copy sold a home. You don’t need to be Keats with your copy. Just the facts. Take a look at a few examples of other descriptions that you like on other homes and just use that same structure for your home. There are other details you’ll need like number of beds/bathrooms etc. but you will already know that and the agent doesn’t add any value there. You may have some additional investment in something like a $10 “For Sale” sign or maybe something else but the days of agents incurring marketing costs to list your property in the newspaper are long gone yet the commission rate remains the same.
  • Listing on the MLS (Max value; $500) – This is one area you will need to hire a realtor for but you do not need to pay them 6% or sign a long-term contract with anyone. Look for a local agent or agency who offer flat fee service. For around $500, they will list your property on the local MLS. Once it’s listed there, it will get picked up by all of the major real estate websites and added to their databases automatically. For this, it is important to find a local realtor rather than a faceless online entity because if you need to make changes to your listing for any reason, you will need a human being to be responsive to your needs.
  • Paperwork (Max value; $0-$1,000?) – Okay, so lots of flat-fee agents will also offer an option to buy standard real estate documents for your state. That’s what you want. I don’t recommend buying them online or trying to cobble together your own homemade contract because you can’t be sure it’s any good. Each state is different and the standard contracts are frequently updated. I recommend you ask your flat-fee agent for any paperwork you will need to list and sell your house. Agencies that specialize in flat-fee service will likely be able to explain each document to you as well to help you with that “I have no idea what I’m looking at” anxiety. Some of the forms can be intimidating but if you take your time with them and familiarize yourself with them before you have to fill them out, it’s really not bad at all. Even if you’re very worried about screwing this part up, you can just hire a real estate attorney to review your documents to make sure they’re in line with what you want. It will be expensive, maybe up to $500/hour, but it will still save you money overall. Plus, an attorney is almost always better than an agent at getting these documents right. So why is the commission so high? At one point, selling a house was a lot more work. Running newspaper ads, marketing houses, attracting buyers was kinda difficult. But the fact is that even back then, only a small portion of that commission ever went to the seller’s agent him/herself. They split any commission they receive with a buyer’s agent (50%) and their broker (usually 50% depending on the agent’s deal with their broker) and they incurred costs along the way. Nowadays, they do not incur similar costs to market your property but the overhead of maintaining a brokerage still exists. Someone needs to cover the cost to keep the place going which includes high costs for attorney retainers and errors & omissions insurance for the agents in case they make a mistake. Since you are not a licensed professional, you do not need E&O insurance and if you want to consult an attorney, you can do so hourly instead of on a retainer.
  • Total max value of agent's services if you hire individual professionals: $2,100. Assuming that you are still offering 3% to a buyer's agent, your total max cost would be $8,100 on a $200,000 home. That's a savings of $3,900 over the standard 6% commission model but I honestly think most people will be able to do this for closer to $1,500-$1,700 though.
Buying a home:
Why you think you need a buyer’s agent: - You may want a buyer’s agent because you think they are free. After all, the seller’s agent will split his/her commission with your agent, so it’s no money out of your pocket. Or maybe you feel like you need someone to help you find the perfect home, or get you financing or maybe you just want someone to help you through the process. It can be nerve racking!
Why you don’t: - Buyer’s agents are not free. Someone has to pay them and the cost always comes from somewhere. If there is no seller’s agent, then you will likely be responsible for paying your agent out of your own pocket (read your agreement!!) If there is a seller’s agent, then they will split their commission with the buyer’s agent. However if there’s a seller’s agent and no buyer’s agent, the seller’s agent will often be willing reduce their commission by 50% and put that toward the home price. So if the seller is offering their agent 6% on a $200,000 house ($12,000), they can ask their agent to reduce the commission to 3% since they won’t have to split it with a buyer’s agent. Then, the seller can reduce their sale price of the home by $6,000 without affecting their out-of-pocket costs and the seller’s agent still gets the 3% they would have gotten if they split it with your buyer’s agent. Basically, you just saved $6,000 plus 30 years of interest on that money. The key here is to negotiate the price to as low as the seller will go, then ask for the agent to cut the commission. Otherwise, you can’t be sure you’re getting the bottom price. So if you want to buy a house without an agent, here’s how to get (most of) the benefits without spending $6,000:
  • Find the perfect home (Max value; $0) – Trulia, Zillow, Realtor.com, whatever. Your agent doesn’t have magical powers. You can find your own property just as easily and you run less of a risk of missing one that you want. You can set up alerts, too. In this case the agent is really only a middleman slowing down the process.
  • Coordinate showings (Max value; $500) – This is actually a pain in the butt if you’re the type to look at a ton of houses but if you’re smart about it, you can schedule multiple showings on the same day to keep things fairly easy. Like book yourself to look at three houses on Saturday instead of looking at them one at a time. It shouldn’t take too long but if saving yourself a few phone calls to set up showings is worth $6,000 to you, then by all means hire an agent. Or, if you really like the frugal lifestyle while also living like a baller you could just hire a personal assistant online to handle that for you for probably around $30/hour or less. You could set up a TON of showings for well under $500.
  • Neighborhood awareness ($? - You decide value) – If you’re moving across the country or otherwise unfamiliar with your new town, an agent may be worth the money for peace of mind but you'll need to decide if that's worth $6,000 to you. With the internet, a few hours of research will show you everything you might want to know. Determine what is important to you when finding a location and there's virtually nothing the agent can tell you that the internet won't tell you. Commute times, school districts, tax rates. All of that stuff is online.
  • Financial advice ($0) – Working with a mortgage broker (A broker is someone who works with multiple banks) or directly with a reputable bank will often provide you better advice than an agent. Most agents will just tell you to talk to the lender anyway. Tell them what you want to do with your home purchase and they will work it out with you.
  • Pricing advice (Max value; $400) – See explanation above. Also, you have the added benefit here if you are getting a mortgage that the bank will require an appraisal before you can get financed. In other words, it’s nearly impossible to overpay for the home.
  • Answering questions/consulting ($1,000-? - You decide value) – Of all the reasons to have a buyer’s agent, I think this is the best one. If you haven’t purchased a home before, you will probably have a ton of questions and there is some real benefit to having someone on call that you trust to help you through your anxieties. If you don’t have a friend or family member to do this with you and the prospect of buying a house is overwhelming to you, an agent may be worth the money just to ease your fears. That being said, if you buy a house from a seller with an agent who doesn’t suck, that agent will be able to walk you through your issues too. There are even a lot of agents who would be happy to answer some of your simpler questions even though they won't get paid. Agents are generally a nice bunch of people who legitimately want to help. The only thing is you’ll be on your own until you decide to put an offer in on a property but that’s when you’ll really need help. Up to that point, it’s just arranging showings for the most part. Remember, the seller’s agent wants the process to go as smoothly as you do. They will help you get your financing in order and help you work though all of the issues and questions you may have as you go along. But remember, the sellers agent really want you to buy that particular house so be sure to get a home inspection before you finalize your sale, even if you're buying a brand new house! It generally costs around $300 or so and it's always money well spent. Even if you hire an agent, though, you will still pay for this out of pocket, so you won't save any money here by having an agent. Also, you will want to buy standard home sale contracts for your state if the seller doesn't already have them and if you want to be totally sure your deal is air-tight, you can hire an attorney to review the contract before you submit it to the seller, though I believe that wouldn't be necessary unless there is no seller's agent at all.
  • Total max value of agent's services if you hire individual professionals: $1,900.
Okay, I spent way too much time writing that and I’m sure there are things I’m leaving out and things I should have thought through better and other general errors, but I believe this would be a good start for anyone looking to save money buying or selling a home.
Chiming in from the perspective of a lawyer, I recommend having a property lawyer look at your contract before you buy/sell as many things are negotiable and the negotiations in your contract is where I really think you can save a lot of money. OP seems on point, but remember that this is usually one of the biggest purchases that a person makes in her life, so do your research first then also see a lawyer.

With my first house, the attorney (flat $500) was by far the most valuable part of the process, and even if my buyer's agent had done nothing else besides recommend that attorney, she'd have been worth it. But I wish I had just found a good attorney and skipped the agent entirely. So much BS with the banks, and the attorney called them on all of it, saved me far more than $500. Plus the headache at closing, it was so nice to have the attorney there clarifying stuff and guiding us through what was normal. The attorney had probably been to 10x more closings than even our agent, it was a real eye opener. 

Shipping lanes in Europe, 2014

Shipping lanes in Europe, 2014 [1620x1013]

If you are interested in world wide map just go to http://www.marinetraffic.com/and enable density map in the menu on the left.

Paradigm Reveals Concept 4F Speakers

Concept 4F is a true full-range hybrid loudspeaker, the perfect balance of powered woofers with a passive upper register array. It features TruExtent® Beryllium 1" tweeters and TruExtent® Beryllium 7" midrange drivers with perforated phase-aligning lenses, and four Ultra-High-Excursion Differential Drive 8.5" woofers in a vibration-cancelling configuration (two front-firing, two rear-firing). Each woofer pair is powered by a separate DSP-controlled 700 W RMS amplifier for a total of 1400 W RMS (2,800 W Dynamic Peak), and combined with exclusive technology like Anthem Room Correction (ARC™) capability. And then some.

Concept 4F Speakers


jueves, 14 de enero de 2016

Amazon Prime LPT

I always pay for my year of prime, usually about 50 bucks. I let it auto-renew, cancel it immediately. About a month after they send me and email to come back to prime and offer it to me for 50 bucks.
Think I've done this 3 years straight now.

They let you cancel after it auto-renews as long as you didn't use the service yet (ie prime shipping) ... Not sure if using video counts though.

Also applies to Sirius XM radio

If you're paying more than $5 a month for Sirius, you didn't say "No" 3 times.

 

LPT: If your AGI less than $62k you may get access to free tax filing software.

The IRS's Free Fileprogram allows those with adjusted gross incomes under $62k to use the Free File software for their federal taxes for no charge in a partnership with the Free File Alliance. Many states also partner with the FFA to offer free state tax returns to those that qualify, and some states offer free e-filing for all taxpayers. Tax return processing will begin January 19, 2016.
(Note: Every taxpayer regardless of income can file for free if you want to fill out the tax forms by hand. The free service being provided here is the software back end that does the calculations for you. Tax returns prepared electronically are generally more accurate than those filled out by hand, reducing processing time and the potential for penalties that result from errors in your filing.)

What can you do in January to prepare for tax season?

  • Finish up any IRA contributions for 2015 (you have until April 15, 2016 to make 2015 IRA contributions).
  • Look up the schedules your various financial institutions are planning on issuing your documentation (1099s, etc) so you can watch for them. Ask your employer when you will receive your W-2.
  • If you are considering professional tax preparation and haven't done so before (or are switching preparers), now is the time to be asking around to find a tax preparer. If you have an established relationship, it's always nice to reach out to say you will/will not be going with the same person again.

    Texas - No state income tax.

    Additionally, there are programs to have your taxes prepared by someone else for free. I "worked" for Volunteer Income Tax Assistance (VITA) in college. The IRS says you qualify if your income is under $54k, but in my own experience, as long as your return is simple, the dollar amounts don't really matter. But the guy in charge of our site was pretty lenient.
    They have locations listed on the IRS website.

    VITA is definitely a great option for many. Your local university accounting group, AARP, or various social service nonprofits are probably your local VITA location, if you have one in your area.
    All VITA sites are different - some require appointments, others have walk in hours, some do a bit of both. The IRS search lets you know and gives you their contact information to reach out directly.

    Just an FYI, sometimes it's easier to search google to see if there's a VITA in your area. The IRS search only attaches to the main address of a program and some programs have multiple locations.


    The things to put in come off that little piece of paper your employer sends you at the beginning of the year. It takes me 10 minutes to file, 20 minutes if I read the instructions as I go, which I don't.


    Thanks for posting this. Also remember: avoid major tax filing companies. They are mostly likely a scam to steal your money. I'm a current employee of JH and can tell you very plainly, the business model of this organization is simply to steal from the EITC of poor people.
    I can't speak for H&R Block or Liberty Tax, but if you come into JH your fee for half hour of time will come to between $300-500



miércoles, 13 de enero de 2016

sPEAKERS FOR 2.1 and later a FULL HT

OK gotcha... 2.1 channel. For less than $11.5K Mark Seaton will ship you a pair of these Catalyst 12C's and a SubMersive F18+ with F18 slave module.

And unlike B&W's, MA's, Vandersteens or whatever, with 4000W of DSP controlled active amps on board a pair Cat 12C's, you'll never need to be on the forums asking about how to spend more money to power them.

For an audition, contact Mark to see what he suggests and also try to find a Seaton owner in your area who'll have you over for a demo. In the meantime, listening impressions from some hardcore enthusiasts are here: January 18th Loudspeaker GTG results thread .

ALSO...

I think these are in your price range and would double as great HT speakers.

http://www.jblsynthesis.com/productdetail/s3900.html
JBL S3900 Floorstanding Loudspeaker SYNTHESIS

NAD and Cambridge Audio are the only receivers to get!. I'l add Marantz to that list!.